Enduro · Four stroke
The registrable trail bike that has been the same since 2000 and is still one of the most popular bush bikes in Australia. Simple, tough, cheap to run, and worth more used than it has any right to be. Sold in Australia from 2000 to 2019, 20 model years.
The DR Z400E is the bike that will not die. It is a 398cc liquid cooled four stroke with a carburettor, electric start, a five speed gearbox and a steel frame, and Suzuki left it alone for twenty five years because it kept selling. It is registrable, it is easy to work on, and it does everything from farm work to weekend trail rides to the odd enduro.
It suits a trail rider who wants a reliable registered bike without competition running costs, a farm rider, a learner (it is on the LAMS lists in most states), or anyone who wants a bike they can fix themselves. It is heavy and soft compared to a WR450F or a 350 EXC F, but it costs a fraction to own. The new DR Z4S replaces it.
Oil and filter every 1,000 to 2,000 km or 15 to 20 hours, whichever comes first, with a 10W 40 motorcycle oil. It takes about 1.7 litres with a filter. The DR Z uses a dry sump with the oil in the frame, so check the level with the dipstick after a warm up, with the bike upright.
Air filter every dusty ride. Check the valve clearances every 5,000 km or so; they are shim under bucket and do move. Check the cam chain tensioner, the chain and sprockets and the wheel bearings. Keep the carburettor clean and drain it before storage.
Engine hours between jobs: the schedule the Digital Garage tracks for this bike, based on the manual. Racers and hard riders go sooner, as above. Ride in sand or mud and halve the engine ones.
| Job | Every |
|---|---|
| Air filter clean and re-oil | 3h |
| Chain clean, lube and adjust | 5h |
| Engine oil change | 10h |
| Oil filter replace | 10h |
| Spoke tension check | 10h |
| Fastener torque check | 10h |
| Cables and throttle lube | 15h |
| Valve clearance check | 20h |
| Air boot and intake seal check | 25h |
| Spark plug replace | 30h |
| Linkage bearings grease | 30h |
| Rear brake pads | 30h |
| Tyres inspect / replace | 40h |
| Tubes and rim locks | 40h |
| Fuel filter / in-tank screen | 45h |
| Clutch plates inspect | 50h |
| Silencer repack | 50h |
| Chain slider, guide and roller | 50h |
| Front brake pads | 50h |
| Grips inspect / replace | 50h |
| Top end inspect (piston, rings, cylinder) | 60h |
| Fork service (oil and seals) | 60h |
| Swingarm bearings grease | 60h |
| Steering head bearings grease | 60h |
| Wheel bearings inspect | 60h |
| Radiator, hoses and clamps | 60h |
| Chain and sprockets replace | 80h |
| Shock service | 80h |
| Wiring and connectors | 80h |
| Cam chain and tensioner inspect | 100h |
| Carburettor / throttle body clean | 100h |
| Brake discs inspect | 100h |
| Bottom end inspect / rebuild | 120h |
| Water pump seal and impeller | 120h |

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A DR Z that has been serviced will run forever; one that has not will still run but will cost you. Listen for a rattly cam chain at idle, check the oil for the right level and colour, and make sure it starts easily on the button. Look for a bent subframe from carrying loads, loose bolts everywhere (they vibrate loose), and a sump guard that has done its job. Check the rego status and whether it has a roadworthy.
Prices in Australia are strong for a bike this old. Recent sold prices are on the Marketplace page linked below.
None listed right now. Selling one? List it free →
The most talked about DR Z issue. A rattle at idle that goes away with revs. A manual tensioner is a common fix.
It vibrates. Check the subframe bolts, the exhaust and the sprocket bolts often.
Old fuel gums it up. Drain it before storage and keep the jetting stock unless the exhaust has been changed.